Sheffield steams ahead with coffee culture


Last week Sheffield was declared the 'real ale capital of the world', but what about its thriving independent coffee scene?

In a University of Sheffield report, the city was hailed the birthplace of UK ale and named the ‘real ale capital of the world’.

While research reveals that Sheffield has 3.5 times as many breweries per capita as London, the city’s independent coffee shop owners are working hard to put the city on the map for a less alcoholic reason.

Over the past five years Sheffield’s independent coffee scene has flourished from a lone café off West Street into a thriving community of locally roasted specialty coffee shops.

Whether it is Tamper’s New Zealand brewed flat whites, Marmadukes Deli’s Swedish guest coffee or Steam Yard’s Steve McQueen coffee and doughnut deal, the Steel City’s independent coffee shops have a lot to offer to its caffeine-craving residents and visitors.

New Zealander Jonathan Perry, 39, joined his wife Natalie in Sheffield five years ago to set up Sheffield's first specialty coffee shop, Tamper Coffee.

Since their first café on Westfield Terrace, the two have expanded to a larger site on Arundel Street and set up Depot Bakery in Kelham Island. As cakes and hot drinks continue to go hand in hand, good quality coffee served in a friendly atmosphere remains key to the couple’s success.

After being greeted by a barista, I sit in Jonathan and Natalie’s stylish shabby-chic wooden office. Speaking above the distant clashes of coffee cups on cutlery and buzzing voices next door, Jonathan tells me about his caffeine fuelled journey from coffee lover to coffee owner.

"We have always been passionate about coffee. In New Zealand the café scene is very big. It is a huge part of people's lifestyle; it is a huge part of our lifestyle."

“In Sheffield we saw a gap, an opportunity, a niche. There are customers out there who are wanting a better quality product than your standard chain."

“Five years ago there was us and a couple of others but since then there has been an influx of coffee shops opening up. We all feed off each other," he tells me.

“There is always going to be a Starbucks or Costa customer. The key is, that when customers come into a place like this, they notice the difference and there is a difference.”

"When customers come into a place like this, they notice a difference, and there is a difference."
Photo credit: Stephanie Ross

The city's shift in preference from large chains to independent coffee shops has also helped neighbouring Marmadukes Deli boom from small town café to Lonely Planet featuring top coffee shop.

Former detective Tim and interior designer Claire set up Marmadukes Deli in 2012. While freshly baked and locally sourced goodies draw in sweet-toothed customers, its famous good quality coffee remains the core of the café’s success.

I chat with head barista and former University of Sheffield student, 29-year-old Alex Mackay over a free cappuccino generously provided by my interviewee.

"There is a lot of precision and effort that goes into every element of what we do which reflects in the way it tastes," he tells me.

“We only used specialty graded coffee which in terms of the year crop is 3 per cent of the all of the coffee produced around the world.”

Alex attributes Sheffield's growing independent coffee scene to boredom of coffee chains, increased awareness of source and surprisingly, the recession.

"Sheffield has a strong feeling of independence in comparison to other places.

“I think it is partially because of the way that bigger chains have treated people and there is the whole tax issue. When the recession hit, weirdly people started spending money on coffee and cakes to treat themselves.

“It also seems like a lot of people are starting to care more about where things are sourced. If you look at the rise of vegetarianism, veganism, it comes with the rise of independent cafes, restaurants and bars."

Of course, good old-fashioned hard work has a part to play in the city’s unique independent coffee shop scene.

“We put the effort into getting to know people who are regular customers, I don’t think you see that in a corporate chain."

“There is such a lovely community in the industry itself so that naturally expresses itself through the cafes.” 

The family-run business takes on apprentices and Alex is keen to stress that importance of independent shops in contributing and giving back to the community. 

“We want to contribute to the community as much as we can,” he tells me.


"We have worked really hard for five years and we will continue working really hard" - Jonathan Perry, owner of Tamper Coffee
Following the city's success for its real ale, Sheffield continues to strive to put its name on the map. For its independent coffee shop owners, caffeine has the potential to fuel Sheffield's reputation as a great place to grab a drink.